As the plane began its descent into Cusco, I looked out my window to see the red tiled roofs of an unfamiliar city. As we got closer, more of the city’s details appeared, and the more I saw how different it was from what I was used to. I had navigated through airports for 1.5 days, only to land in a place that I felt I wasn’t ready to discover on my own. However, once the plane landed, my fear soon vanished and was replaced by excitement for the unknown.
I wasn’t in Cusco for long. Its astonishingly high elevation of 3,399m causes altitude sickness in unaccustomed tourists. As an attempt to hold off those symptoms for a while longer, I left to Poroy early the next morning to catch a train that was headed to Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo.
As I sat on the train headed towards the town that was situated below the iconic Machu Picchu, I couldn’t peel my eyes from the variable sun-soaked landscape beyond my window. We travelled through various small towns, each with their own unique characteristics, branded by the hardworking nature of Peruvians. I caught glimpses into their daily lives and tried to picture what my life would be like had I been born here.
I was shaken out of my pondering daze once the train arrived. As soon as I stepped off, I was carried by the moving crowd into the adjacent market. It was roofed which provided temporary protection from the sun. There was commotion everywhere, market stalls and people arose as impenetrable barriers. It was hard to move anywhere with my big backpack. I slowly squeezed my way past people, careful not to get too close to any displays, in the fear that I would knock something over. As soon as I found my way out of the chaotic market maze, I was greeted by the full immensity of the sun, I’m pretty sure I got a sunburn after 2 mins! The air was humid, accompanied by a rich floral scent. Welcome to the rainforest!
I dropped my bags off at the hostel and embarked on a journey to the Mandor Waterfalls, situated in the protected biodiversity area: Los Jardines de Mandor (link). I followed the dirt road beside the rapidly flowing waters of the Urubamba River. Buses frequently passed me, carrying tourists to and from Machu Picchu. A trail eventually branched off from the main road, it was overgrown and there were no signs indicating where it led. I couldn’t see any other trails nearby, so despite my slight skepticism, I proceeded to follow the unknown path ahead.
The trail eventually converged with railway tracks, forming one, potentially dangerous, path. Left with no choice but to walk on the tracks, I hurried along, in fear that I would become the train’s next unsuspecting victim. There were surprisingly no other people around, just the sounds of the forest accompanied me as I walked.
Eventually I saw some buildings appear in the distance, indicating that I had arrived to the biodiversity area. Signs finally emerged amidst the leaves of banana trees, leading me to finally find the Mandor Waterfalls. Bordering the waterfall were all kinds of green plants whose names I didn’t know, and the surrounding humid air was incredibly rich in floral aromas.
Machu Picchu
I woke up early, too excited to sleep any longer. Today was the day I would see Machu Picchu with my very own eyes! I decided to hike instead of take a bus so that I could be surrounded by nature as I enjoyed the views at my own pace. Little did I know, the hiking trail consisted of climbing a hillside of vertical stairs through the rainforest for 1.5 hrs! By the time my eyes set upon the iconic ancient ruins, I was a little worse for wear, and the day had just started! I don’t know how the Incas did it…
I didn’t spend too much time looking at the ruins, I was fixated on a bigger goal: climbing the Machu Picchu Mountain! It was a very intense hike composed of steep steps. Some parts of the trail were so close to the un-barriered cliff, I was worried I would lose judgement due to fatigue and fall right over the edge! Luckily, that didn’t happen, and whenever that thought made an appearance in my mind, I made sure to take a couple precautionary steps back, just to be safe.
After 2 hrs of treacherous hiking, or should I say stepping, I made it to the top! The struggle was absolutely worth it. The view was indescribable, far below I could see Aguas Calientes and the Urubamba river weaving its way around the many green mountains. After some time of taking in the view, I carefully made my way back down the mountain. Going down is almost scarier than the ascent, because now I was entirely exhausted and my legs felt like uncontrollable Jello.
I proceeded to wander around the majestic Inca ruins that held secrets of the ancient civilization. The massive stones were so perfectly cut and laid upon one another, and the layout of the city’s waterways were exceptionally well thought-out. I was trying to wrap my mind around what it might’ve been like… I had so many questions! I wandered around the captivating ruins awhile longer then made my way to the buses. I planned to take a bus back into town, but after seeing the prices, I decided that I better take the trail of unrelenting stairs… solo budget travelling has its drawbacks sometimes.
Pisac
Shortly after returning to Cusco, I went on a quest to see some archeological ruins in Pisac, a town 30 kms away. I wasn’t exactly sure how to get there, but on my hostel map there was a little bus symbol on the corner of one of the city streets, so I figured it meant that a bus going to Pisac might stop there. When I had nearly arrived to the point indicated on the map, a bus stopped at some traffic lights, and a man jumped out and yelled “Pisac?!” I quickly nodded in surprise and jumped on, finding a seat among the locals. I was very new to the South American bus system, so I just went along with the ride, not sure whether I would actually end up in Pisac. The bus kept driving around town picking up more and more people until it was absolutely packed. The ride was a great city tour alternative!
Even as we left the city and started driving down the rural roads, we continually picked up people along the on the way. I’ll admit, I felt a little out of place as I was the only young female tourist on a bus full of locals and I didn’t know a word of Spanish.
Much to my surprise, we actually arrived in Pisac! I took a taxi to the archaeological ruins that were situated above town, quite a ways up the mountainside. After getting my day’s fill of history, I found myself back in town. The busy morning market had dissipated, leaving the town to be a somewhat deserted place. I walked around for awhile, trying to find a bus stop, but found none. I guess I hadn’t thought this far ahead… I had assumed that the departure would be as easy as the arrival. What was I going to do?! In a fit of controlled panic, I started to walk. I knew the general way to Cusco, the only problem was that it was 30 kms away… which technically would take 5.5 hrs. I quickened my pace as soon as I realized that I potentially wouldn’t make it back before sundown. I walked for probably an hour, and had only managed to make it up part of the first mountain… I forgot to account for the struggle associated with hiking at high altitudes. I was quickly becoming fatigued, every struggled step that I mustered was quickly leading me to the realization that I was a damsel in distress that needed saving.
Vehicles kept passing but nobody stopped. My energy was draining fast, I knew I wouldn’t make it back at this pace. I felt defeated, in complete despair. It seems that I had gotten myself into a big mess with no victory in sight. As soon as I had given up all hope, I saw a vehicle stop in the distance. Two people got out to look at a roadside stand. This was my only hope! I ran, worried they would leave before I had a chance to talk to them. As I got closer, I mustered up all my courage and walked over. I asked if they were headed to Cusco and whether I could join. After some contemplation, the woman said yes. THANK GOODNESS!
As if the Pisac incident wasn’t enough adventure for one day, I asked the cab driver to drop me off at Tambomachay, which is on the way to Cusco. My naivety at the time and total enthusiasm for hiking left me exploring the ruins of Tambomachay, after which I once again found myself on the road to Cusco, but this time it was only 5 kms away! The number seemed manageable on paper but it felt like forever. I was so tired and a headache started to make itself home in my head.
I was just on the outskirts of Cusco, almost there! I proceeded to walk down an urban road only to stumble upon a group of four vicious-looking dogs snarling at a honking car. I didn’t have the energy to turn back and find another way around, so I proceeded to walk on the far side of the narrow road, hoping the dogs would stay fixated on the car. One of the dogs tore it’s focus away from the car and ran over to me, barking aggressively. The dog was so close, I was preparing myself for the bite. My immediate thought was: “I really should have gotten that rabies vaccine”. I took a slow step forward but the dog suddenly snarled, baring its teeth. Trying not to make any sudden movements, I slowly walked forward again. Luckily, its interest in me waned and it prodded back to the car with the other three dogs. I breathed a huge sigh of relief as my heart continued to pound in my chest. That was scary!
Cusco
Finally, after all this adventure, it was time to explore Cusco. The city is relatively large, surrounded by mountains that provide a scenic back-drop to the colonial architecture of the city’s buildings. Cusco’s main square, Plaza de Armas, has two large churches with a large fountain at its centre, a beautiful scene when illuminated at night. Cusco has many interesting museums, such as the ChocoMuseo, a museum on making chocolate, and Museo Inka, a museum on the history of the Incas.
Branching away from the city’s core are many narrow, meandering streets that achieve very steep inclines the longer you follow them. One of such streets leads to Saqsayhuaman, another archaeological site which used to be the capital of the Incan empire. Similar to what I had seen in Machu Picchu, there were many large stone slabs that had been perfectly cut and stacked upon one another, forming massive stone assemblies that housed the Incan civilization.
Take-aways
If you love history and seeing ruins of an ancient civilization, then Peru is the place for you! I really appreciated Peru’s contrasting landscapes of arid mountains vivid forests. Although I only visited a small region of Peru, it gave me a taste of the Peruvian culture and the rich history that the country is founded upon. Machu Picchu is an iconic, sought-after tourist destination and for good reason. Its stone structures placed among the mountains provides an unforgettably captivating scene. Peru also has many fantastic markets with all kinds of beautiful textiles and fabrics.
Travelling to Peru as a 19 year-old might sound risky to some, but in retrospect it was one of the best things I could have done. It catapulted me into the unknown, which, as I found out, is exceptionally conducive to learning more about yourself and what you’re capable of. Follow the path of adventure, you never know where it’ll take you!